There is an easier way

So today as I am driving around in Lusaka. I was wondering why traffic was worse than usual. I was in an older part of town and on one of the original streets, Cairo road. A lot happens in this area. Lots of bustling activities: endless shops that carry just about anything you want but in no specific order, people overflowing from the sidewalks into the street, and more cars than parking spots. I enjoy driving around this area. It lets you know you are alive.

Anyhow, after some time, I finally drove upon the cause for the delay in traffic. Low and behold, they were painting the white lines on the road. I bet not too many of us have seen people actually pull a rope tight and hand paint the lines. Let’s talk about manual labor. People here are hard workers. That is for sure.IMG_5612

There is an easier way

A little update on my trip to the Lower Zambezi

On the road down to Zambezi, we ran into the most interesting roadblock. I didn’t feel the need to mention it until now as I didn’t think it was important. The road block was a couple of tree branches in the middle of the path with a handwritten sign that said ‘danger’. When we saw the sign, we stopped and I poked my head over the pile of brush, didn’t notice anything special, and didn’t give it a second thought. Figured someone was screwing around. A day or two after we get back, Martin mentioned the sign and roadblock to a Zambian friend who responded, “Oh yeah, that’s a land mine.” WTF!! Today, I bumped into someone from the Embassy that would know about such matters (if you know what I mean) and I mentioned it to him. He confirmed that that was probably a landmine (WTF!) and that only about half of the landmines have been found. I am not clear exactly of the situation—we heard different stories: perhaps the landmine was part of Zambia’s war of independence from England or perhaps we were in the area that was used as a training ground to prepare soldiers to fight against segregation. Ok, so if I see a sign that says ‘danger’, I will not question it. Btw, the guy from the Embassy was so excited to hear about the crazy road-trip-over-boulders and the danger sign that he wants me to take him on that route sometime soon.

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Pile of branches on right.Grass cut down to drive around
A little update on my trip to the Lower Zambezi

The Lower Zambezi

The Zambezi River is the river that brings the water from the Congo over Victoria Falls and into the Indian Ocean. It is the fourth longest river in the Africa and passes through six countries. The Lower Zambezi is the term for the last 650 miles of the Zambezi River, after Victoria Falls, which ultimately ends up at the ocean. This area is beautiful.
A few days ago, I was talking with a friend, Martin, who mentioned that there was a ‘short cut’ to the lower Zambezi. Normally, the route takes 5-7 hours from Lusaka or, if you are adventurous, there is a short cut over hills, rocks, and mountains, which gets you there in about half the time. Martin had some friends’ who tried it last week and ended up needing to winch themselves out of a few tough situations. When Martin mentioned the idea of trying the short cut, I first thought ‘hell yes’ and then thought,we won’t need a winch to get through it’. Old time jeep guiding ego kicked in! 
So, today’s adventure started off in the early morning. I arrived at Martin’s hours and we loaded up supplies (ex. beer) and equipment (ex. shovel) on his Land Cruise and off we went. The short cut road to Lower Zambezi is not far from our house and it’s a straight shot, kinda.
The road starts off like many other roads in Zambia, first a little dirt, then old pavement road, and then to a newer paved road and then back to a dirt path. Rumor has it that they may pave the road all the way to the Lower Zambezi but we will see. The path over the mountain was only as wide as the car and had many switch backs, washouts, off camber, axel twisting fun! Nate, you would have loved it. Some of the most fun wheeling I have done in a long time.
About 15 minutes into the drive on the path over the mountain, we stopped next to my first baobab tree (also referred to the Tree of Life). OMG! These trees are beautiful. The size alone is breathtaking. A man who lives close by came over to see if we needed help. We told him that we were just admiring the tree. There was also an old church nearby that caught our eye and he said that it is still used every Sunday. What a view they have of the baobab! We said our goodbyes and, as a sense of appreciation, shared two apples with him and a roll of toilet paper. What seems to be such a small gesture by our standards is so welcomed and appreciated. We started driving again, headed through small villages, and the kids were running out to the path to greet us and yell, “Hello, how are you?” A simple wave or thumbs up makes them smile ear to ear. We saw goats, chickens, cows, and pigs just milling about as well as people walking the path. Too bad for the walkers as we were going in the opposite direction. Picking up hitch hikers is common and I have already given a few rides. When you are this far out, people really need a ride or they will be walking for days. If I ever need a ride, I can only hope to get picked up. We got to some pretty good hill climbs and a few water crossings and only got held up once on a big rock that we got high centered on. After that, it was my turn to drive. Hot damn! We are just getting to the top so I got to take it all the way down. Definitely some fun was had. A lot of loose rock, some more river crossings, and more switchbacks than I can say.
We get to the bottom of the mountain and finally back on graded dirt. Martin took over driving and we headed towards a lodge on the river called Kiambi Lodge. What a nice place. We ordered some beers and a couple cheese burgers and walked around the property. They were trying to nurse a 3 week old hippo back to health after he lost his mother. Fingers crossed for the little guy. After lunch, we hired a boat and a guide to show us around a little. I learned from my experience getting lost at Jurassic Park—don’t turn down the offer of a guide!  I really wanted to see some hippos. Well, the guide didn’t disappoint. I saw more hippos than I could have ever imagined. I couldn’t get over their size. We also saw birds of all sizes and colors. I got a picture of some bee eaters. The picture isn’t great but it was crazy to see them all perched on a branch.
Will S, you need to look up bird watching for when you come out.
Vo, I finally threw a line. I didn’t catch anything but I broke my dry streak. You need to check out the fishing around here, world class, my friend.
When it was time to leave, Martin started out driving back on the dirt roads and a good 20 minutes in, we picked up a walker who needed a ride to the next village. What would have taken him hours to walk up the hill, we did in 15 minutes. He was very happy. We dropped him off and switched drivers and I was back in the saddle. The reverse trip was even more fun and challenging. Kinda funny how that is some times.
We only ran into a couple of spots that needed a little onion/pedal to get through but the views were amazing. Once again, the kids were running out to say hi (which I just can’t get enough of). What a great day trip. Eight hours of great company along with some wheeling and views that pictures just don’t do justice. Not a bad Tuesday for sure.

The Lower Zambezi

Finally got a Braai (grill)

 

Once a month, there is a bigger market in Lusaka called the Dutch market as it sits on the property of a Dutch church. This market is a gold mine of artists’ work, tourist things, food stalls (I finally found Mexican food!), and other random things. This was our first chance to go and it was much better than the weekly markets that are held around town. It has better quality items and has a lot of things that you don’t need but would be fun to have! (To the parents of my nieces and nephews: Sorry, well not too sorry, for sending some stuff your way! 😊)
During my shopping, I found a well-built braai which is the South African name for grill/BBQ. The braii is made out of a 55 gallon drum, built in work, hanging arm to boil water or hang a pot, multiple grill areas. I sure am missing my Big Green Egg but will give this braai a chance! If I can’t do pizza on it, I’m going to have to build myself a nice pizza oven in the backyard.

Wish me luck on trying out this new method of cooking. Today is seasoning day for the braai. Need to get it ready to go and we started off with a stir fry in the wok. Bon appetit!

Finally got a Braai (grill)

Easter weekend part 3: Livingstone, Zambia at Victoria Falls

This is the last post about the falls! I promise. 🙂

On the last day in Livingstone, we had a light schedule but it still started early. Today, we went to the falls for a trip that is called The Morning Breezer which departed from the Royal Livingstone Hotel at 7am. We got there in Winckler fashion because 15 minutes early is late in my world! Arriving early, we got to enjoy a bit of relaxing time before the boat picked us up to go to Livingstone Island. Livingstone Island is a small patch of land about 10 feet for the edge of the falls. There is a area set up for breakfast, a loo (bathroom) with a view (of the falls), and the opportunity to walk to the end of the falls and look over. Once on the island, they asked us to remove our shoes and anything else we didn’t want to get wet. Next, they began to walk us toward the edge of the falls. They give us the history of Dr. Livingstone who was the first Westerner to document the falls. Next thing you know they took us by the hand and walked us one by one to the edge to look over! I was standing 6 inches from the drop and looking down! Holy f@&$. How crazy is that! These guys are either fearless or stupid but, hey, I let them walk me out there so am I the stupid one. Either way, what a view. During dry season, you can walk to Devil’s pool and you can swim within inches from the edge. Today, as you can see from the photos, the water was too deep and too fast to make it there safely. Even though we couldn’t get to the pool, the experience was worth it. After going to the edge, they led us back to the patch of land for breakfast. This was the best breakfast we had had all week! What a great way to end a great weekend of firsts. Can’t wait to go back and swim in that pool.

Easter weekend part 3: Livingstone, Zambia at Victoria Falls

Easter weekend part two: Livingstone, Zambia at Victoria Falls

 

Saturday morning started early. We were picked up at 7 AM in front of the lodge to go on a lion/white rhino adventure. Lions, just like the white rhino, are endangered so they are being breed at an animal sanctuary with eventually release into a national game reserve. At the animal sanctuary, which is approximately 1000 acres, they are able to roam free until they are released. The lions are trackable by an antennae-device in which the more rapid the beeping, the closer the lions. As we approached the sanctuary’s gate, the game ranger pulled out the antenna and a handheld radio that started making all sorts of beeps and bops. The ranger said that the loins were too close to the gate, it would be unsafe to enter using this gate, and we would need to drive to another entrance. When I heard this, I figured they were putting on a show to give us our money’s worth. As we began to drive around, along the side of the fence to get to the next entrance, six lion cubs (2.5 to 4 years old) were lined up and just looking at us!! The driver stopped the safari vehicle and we just looked at their size and beauty. The six cubs will be old enough to go to the game reserve in about four years.

After watching the lions for some time, we continued to drive to the other entrance to the sanctuary. As we neared the next gate, an employee came running towards us. He was one of their mechanics and remembered that there was some spare rope on the safari vehicle holding down the top canopy. When he realized that he was short on rope, he came out to ask the guide to cut the rope so he could fix a vehicle he was working on. It was crazy. I loved how the mechanic knew his vehicles that well. One thing I’ve noticed here is that nothing goes to waste and people don’t take things for granted.

We arrived at the next gate, passed through, and began looking for the lions again. Our vehicle was driving through grass taller than the truck! After a bit, we came across one of the cubs that we had seen earlier. He was the youngest cub and very curious. He saw us and began to creep around the corner of tall grass to check us out. He first sat down and then eventually laid down to watch us. He began to clean himself, yawn, and finally rest his head. We stared back at him wide-eyed and truly amazed to watch this “baby”, who is 250 pounds, just sitting there about 15 feet from us. We watched him for about 20 minutes while the ranger told us about the conservation effort of the park. He also explained that the adult lions were at the other side of the parking, enjoying the tall grass which is why we wouldn’t be able to find them. We eventually headed off to a safari-type breakfast which was in a small open-air building with a thatched roof. I just love all the thatching that is done here. We had scrambled eggs, bacon, fresh fruit, toast, juices, and coffee. Overlooking the wilderness is not a bad way to have breakfast. After breakfast, we were off to see the six white rhinos in the Mosi-oa-tuna National Park. Within 5 minutes, we started to see animals: baboons, zebras, giraffes, and wildebeest. It was like watching National Geographic. The driver stopped so we could take pictures. We eventually get to the area of the rhinos which are guarded 24 hours a day for protection from poachers and each rhino has two rangers assigned at all times. A armed ranger walked us to an area where four of them were resting in the shade of a tree. We stood about 30 feet away from these massive beasts. They seem to be very mild animals unless they feel threatened. Our guide explained that one of the rhinos, not under the tree, had a baby a few weeks ago. We learned that when a rhino is born, the mother will take the baby away from the group until the baby is strong enough to be introduced, accepted, and ultimately protected by the group. The guard said that the baby will soon begin to get his own guards assigned to him. Among the group of four under the tree, three were females and there was one juvenile male about four years old. The guide explained to us that the dominant male rhino was still getting used to the teenage male being part of the group. As our small group of six people were standing there looking at the rhinos and talking to the rangers, I heard a rustling in the bushes and the pitter patter of some pretty big feet coming up behind us. All the sudden the guard says “follow me, follow me” as he tries to get everyone out of the path of the dominant male rhino as he is moving towards the shade tree where the other rhinos were resting. It was unbelievable how quickly an animal that big was able to move! The dominate male rhino approached the females but once he realized that the young male rhino was also under the tree, the dominant male stopped abruptly and just stared down the young male. The females, recognizing that the dominant male was unhappy with the young male being there, stood up and moved to surround the young male. As we watched this unfold, I just kept thinking to myself, “anything could happened now”. After about ten minutes of watching this standoff, the guards motioned to us that it was time to leave and we slowly walked away. There are a couple pictures included in this blog that show the dominate male charging towards us. As the rest of us were running for cover hoping not to be trampled, Kathy just stood there and took pictures. Small strike against my man card 😊.

Once back in the safari vehicle, we continued the drive through the national park and saw animals everywhere. There were termite hills that were 80 to 100 years and over ten feet tall. There were so many of these massive termite structures! The next thing we knew, we are back at our hotel because the David Livingston is inside the national park. Pretty sweet.

Back at the hotel, we grabbed a quick bite for lunch and decide to take a tour of the Victoria Falls Bridge. There is a walking tour that begins with a short theatrical performance which was wonderful. A man portrayed the role of the on-site engineer responsible for assembling the bridge that would stretch from the cliffs of the Zimbabwe side to the cliffs of the Zambia side. I say “assemble” as the bridge was first built fully in England (upside down!) to make sure that everything fit together, each piece was numbered, then dismantled, put on a ship and sailed down the west side of Africa and ½ up the east side of Africa to the port of Mombasa, Kenya, to then be transported overland to Victoria Falls, reassembled from each side simultaneously and, unbelievably, it fit together! The performance explained how the bridge was designed and built, how which it cost (76,000 British pounds), and that it only took 14 months to build. Fun facts! I can’t imagine how much money and time it would take if you would try to build such a bridge in today’s world.

After the skit, we harnessed up to walk on the catwalks under the bridge. This was under where the cars, trains, and people traveled. Within the first 40 feet of the tour, I wondered what I had gotten myself into as this was not meant for tall people. Julie, I sure got my squats in that day! Keeping it high and tight thanks to the bridge tour! As we walked along the underside of this amazing bridge, the view into the gorge of the Zambezi river was unbelievable. We could see a double rainbow just underneath us and right over the boiling point where we had sat for hours the day before. I sure do feel like I found my pot of gold with the amazing views, sheer size and beauty that the falls have to offer. It’s a must do on your bucket list. And I will be happy to join anyone if you come down. Just saying 😉 When we got to the middle of the bridge and I looked down and was literally standing in two countries.

As we neared the end of the tour along the bottom of the bridge, our guide showed us a painting bucket near the bottom of the gorge. One of the painters fell off the bridge and lived (!) although he has a long road to recovery. Luckily, when he fell, he was close to the side of the cliff and only fell about 100 feet and then continued to tumble down. Wondering how long it takes to paint the bridge? Six years from one end to the other and as soon as they finish, they start the process again. They can only paint about six months of the year, during dry season, as the mist is too strong during high season for painting. The painting is all done by hand, just brushes and buckets. Before painting each time, they first take off the previous coat of paint. When there is power, they sandblast it off. When there is no power, thy have to hand scrape with a bristle brush. There is no way you could pay me to stand on a 2×12 placed between support beams and paint/scrape. OSHA would have a field day on the bridge.

We finished the tour of the bridge’s catwalks which ends on the Zimbabwe side and then walk back across the top of the bridge to the Zambia side. This is where the bungee jumping takes place. A 111 meter (approximately 300 feet) jump over the Zambezi River. WOW. Hope I can muster up the balls to do this someday. I had bungee jumped before when I was much younger/braver/stupider so time will tell if I do it again—but that also wasn’t 111 meters high or over rocks and a rushing river! We wrapped up the tour and headed back to the hotel for sunset and a G and T. What a great full day of incredible sights.

Side note: So my visa was expiring at midnight and I was not supposed to leave the country. Well I don’t think crossing the bridge really counted and apparently neither did immigrations. They gave me back my passport and I was back on safe ground back in Zambia. 

Easter weekend part two: Livingstone, Zambia at Victoria Falls

Easter weekend: Livingstone, Lusaka at Victoria Falls

I am going to break the tales of this weekend into a couple of posts as I’m a little windy (and not to mention a week late). 

In Zambia, Easter weekend is a 4-day holiday with Good Friday and Easter Monday off. So, Friday morning we were up and on the road by 5 AM heading to the airport for our one hour flight to Livingston, Zambia to go see Victoria Falls. 😊 I am still not too familiar with the area, including how to drive to the airport, so I type “Lusaka International Airport” into the GPS. Well, when GPS gives directions, it does not seem to take into count whether the road is paved, the condition of the road, which roads are private, or when there are just random guarded gates in the middle of the road. Today’s journey took us to a manned (and armed) kingdom entrance-type gate. We pulled up to the gate and explained to the man that we were trying to get to the airport. He said that they don’t let people pass through and directed us to the road that we should have taken (had we known that the kingdom gate existed). We played stupid (well, I guess we were as we don’t know how to get the airport) and he was kind enough to let us drive through the gate and also gave us directions to the airport (only two turns—but we know from past experience, that the ‘only two turns’ can still lead to hours of being lost!). We only needed to be at the airport an hour before the flight and since we thought we knew how to get to the airport, we didn’t give ourselves much extra time for those “two extra turns”. Needless to say I was a little nervous but we made it with no problem.

Once we landed in Livingstone, we were picked up by our hotel, the David Livingstone Hotel, which is on the banks of the Zambezi river. Wow. Let me tell you, I was not expecting this lodge to be as impressive as it was. As soon as we pulled into the gate, you see that the entire lodge had a thatched roof! Just amazing. We pulled up to the front doors of the hotel (the two large thick wooden doors were probably each 20 feet tall and eight feet wide). The doors were open so you could look right through the hotel’s open air hotel on to the Zambezi River. I couldn’t believe it. What an incredible view. The name of Victoria Falls in the local language is Mosi-oa-tuna which means “the smoke that thunders”. The smoke refers to the massive amount of mist that is created from the water crashing over the falls which causes clouds of mist (“smoke”) to rise into the air—over 1300 feet from the top of the falls (the falls are 355 feet deep so the mist is nearly rising 1500-2000 feet from the bottom!). Even though the hotel was five miles from the falls, we could look down the river and see those huge bursts of smoke billowing into the sky all day and night. Just beautiful. They say that you can see the smoke from over 30 miles away. The second part of the “smoke that thunders” name refers to the incredible sound that the water makes as it crashes over the falls—it literally sounds like thunder and you can hear it all day and night.

After checking in at the hotel and dropping our luggage, we hit the ground running and took off to Victoria Falls. We got a phone number of a local taxi driver, Evan, from a friend in Lusaka (thank you Martha!) and what a score he was! We spent the weekend using him as we went from one place to another and he didn’t charge us the tourist price. What a great find. We arrived at the falls and as soon as you got out of the car we could hear the roar/thunder of the water coming over the top. That alone is an incredible sound. It is a national park so we paid our money and walked right to the top of the falls where you can see all the way down. It was amazingly impressive and words cannot describe the awe you feel. As we were walking down the path to get closer and closer to the falls, we started to notice the mist come in. First, it was just a light mist but the closer we got, the mist turned into light rain which turned into heavy rain which turned into basically standing in the shower! It was amazing. I cannot believe how much water was falling out of the sky just from the power of the falls hitting the bottom and making this mist. When we crossed one of the bridges in the gouge, the water was coming down so hard we couldn’t see in front of us because the ‘rain’ was so heavy. We were now completely soaked from head to toe. We couldn’t even ring out our clothes because there was so much water. And it was surprisingly refreshing—not cold, not hot, just a perfect temperature. At the top of the falls, right when we first entered the national park, there were stands renting rain jackets and ponchos. We opted not to have them as we saw that people who rented them still looked soaked. The only thing that would keep you dry during the raining season (or ‘high’ water season) would have been a dry suit! We walked completely around the top loop of the falls and then down into the gouge to an area called the Boiling Point. It was a rocky and muddy downhill path filled with baboons running everywhere, laying in the sun sleeping, and grooming each other. The baboons were very accustomed to people and it was quite the sight to see a baboon walking right next to you on the path. When we got to the bottom of the path and sat down on the rocks, I understood why they call it boiling point. The water looks like it is boiling as it is just turning and flowing back and forth this is a dead-end/curve to the lower Zambezi river. Apparently this is where they start out the whitewater rafting trips. We sat there for an hour just watching the water and enjoying the view of the Victoria Falls Bridge! What an amazing sight. We finally decided it was time to go back up the hill. After what felt like a five minutes of heart attacks walking up the hill because, apparently, I am extremely out of shape, we made it to the top and started walking towards the Royal Livingston Hotel so we could watch the sun go down. This hotel is right at the top of the falls. As we were walking to the Royal Livingston hotel, a person who worked there asked us, “Have you seen the zebras or the giraffes?” We hadn’t so he showed us the way and gave us a brief history such as that they have a giraffe named Bob who does not like humans so they have to keep him away from the guests. We walked over to the area where we found Bob, a few other giraffes, and zebras. Most of the zebras were also not nice to people (for more details, ask Angela as she has a great bruise to show for it). According to our impromptu guide, he said they were sending Bob to a game park and may be getting rid of the zebras because the zebras have been kicking too many people as they are free to wander around. This was the first giraffe and first zebra I have ever seen not in a zoo. So amazing to see them just doing their thing. We finally get to the hotel area and went to their patio deck that rests on the banks of the Zambezi river not far from the top of Victoria Falls. We ordered a late lunch and a few gin and tonics, kicked back, and enjoyed the sunset. Truly amazing. After the sunset, we headed back to our hotel, had dinner, and called it a day.IMG_5379 (2)IMG_5249IMG_5243 (3)IMG_5249

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Hard to tell, but I am soaked and everyone loved my shirt
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Boiling Point

 

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Can you find the Baboon?
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Bob the Giraffe and Angelia’s Zebra

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Easter weekend: Livingstone, Lusaka at Victoria Falls